Master Class - 'Pulling Faces' |
The Tools of the Trade
this project I shall simply be using GW's own 'Greenstuff' modelling putty and
my favourite sculpting tool which came from the sclupting tool set from
The Wargames Foundry.
I shall also make use of a scalpel blade for very fine
with a small ball-bearing size piece of green putty - equal amounts of blue and
yellow - if you find it sticks to your fingers as you mix it - lick your finger
Head on a Stick
putty is attached to the end of something - I'm using another sculpting tool -
but a pencil would do just as well. We need to remain hands-free as we work,
and the tool/pencil will allow us to rotate the job easily and we can jab it
into something when we're done while finished job is left to dry which will take
3 to 4 hours.
Feeling the Pinch
start by gently pinching the putty a little. This just gives us a starting point
for the nose.
Follow your nose!
I press the tool into the putty just below the nose where the mouth will be.
All the features of the face will be pressed into the putty - we wont be
sticking noses on or trying to make little eyebrows to glue on - it's much too
small for that. Only the hair will be added at the final stages.
side of the nose and into where the eyes are to form the browline.
we define the shape of the face itself by pressing around the face and defining
the jaw line. Remember we are making a face - not a whole round head. The
finished face - when dry will be removed carefully and added to the model and at
that point the back of the head/hair will be added.
This is a
good time to check the size of your sclupted face against a genuine figure. If
it's not right - fix it now. Is the nose too big? fix it now. If it's all
totally wrong - start again. Go no further until your happy you've got this
Off we go again
the point of a scalpel blade, gently define the mouth...
sculpting tool just tickle the checks back a little so the face doesn't look
fat. Very gentle touches only. You should be keeping your sculpting tool moist
- I periodically lick the end of the tool - this keeps it from sticking to the
stage I've sharpened some of the features up with the scalpel - and I've pressed
top and bottom of the eyes which defines the actual eyes themselves. At this
stage all of my faces look like Freddy Cruger! - so if you're making a Freddy
Cruger model - go no further.
I'm going to
give our man a hint of facial hair - a hint mind! he's not Father Christmas!
again - we dont stick a moustache on - we simply press each side of the
moustache very gently, and it starts to appear.
The Boromir look
hair is added. Reclaiming some of the putty around the face I roll it gently in
my fingers and add a few locks - medusa style. Intsantly the figure will take
on a certain look. The hair-style and facial hair are key features if you are
making a particular character - get this part right and you'll be forgiven for
Keeping the tool moist, the hair is stroked into position and the
locks curled into the face. At this point if you were worried about the ears
just cover them with hair!
Check all angles
your model and check all angles. Check the size again too in case you've
stretch him a little - if so just press up under his chin and down on the top to
shorten the face again.
That's it -
we're done for now. Allow the face to dry - over night is best to avoid any
possibility of touching it before it's ready to be handled. The face will then
be removed from the stick and attached to the main figure.
Easy? no, I won't pretend that it's easy, but practice and confidence
will make good. Accept criticism and look at your models objectively the next
day and strive to make the next one better than the last.